Bicycling Across North America

Day 83

2011-09-03T00:54:00.001-03:00

The end.

A great way to start our autumn, by ending our trip and returning to the place I love, home. As we climbed out of the Palouse River valley we saw the territory we are familiar with – rolling hills of wheat, barley and lentils. Much of the harvest this year is late because of the prolonged spring that was wetter and cooler than normal. Suits us just fine to see the harvest happen as we ride along.

I called Linda before leaving Colfax to let her know we were ready to start our last leg of our ride home. We exchanged excited greetings and I put her on the speaker phone so she, Walter and I could share our departure prayer. Afterward I told Walter, “Let’s ride.”

Following U.S. 195 north we stopped in Rosalia for lunch and made final arrangements for meeting our friend Dave who would join us the final 15 miles into Cheney. An avid runner for most of his life he now enjoys cycling based on his doctor’s recommendation. He has thoroughly enjoyed following Walter and I on line during these last few months and was pleased to ride with us into town. Oh, did I tell you he is a septuagenarian?

The last few miles were exciting as I had wondered how it would feel returning home. It's just overwhelming. After weeks of following behind me on the road I asked Walter to “throttle back” so we could arrive together. And so we did. What a great welcome home by my daughter and my best friend.

So, our journey of Bicycling Across North America ends, but the adventure continues. Without you our trip would not have been nearly so much fun. I thank you for your love, prayers and support these last 11 weeks. Until we meet again…

I want to ride to the ridge

where the west commences

And gaze at the moon till I lose my senses

And I can't look at hovels and I can't stand fences

Don't fence me in.

Roy Rogers, 1944

Where are we today?

2011-09-03T00:44:00.002-03:00

Here is our final route, Day 83: Colfax - Cheney, Washington

To view any part of the routes you can see all days here: Map My Rides, My Rides

Where are we today?

2011-09-02T00:49:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Lewiston, Idaho - Colfax, Washington

Here is our route for Day 82. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 82

2011-09-02T00:49:00.000-03:00

Oh, God

Today was our final big challenge, the Lewiston Grade. The road to this butte rises 2,000 feet above the town of Lewiston, Idaho and its sister city of Clarkston, Washington. Stepping outside of our hotel and looking up and up, well it was intimidating! But after all these weeks on the road we were set on getting home to Cheney; after our morning prayer we started the seven mile climb.

Even while sweating profusely in the cool autumn air I found time to pray more and think about life, Walter and this adventure we have been on. Often my prayers are simple. Such as Oh God!! (looking over a scenic landscape). Or, Oh God! Where is Walter (as an ambulance screams by.). Or, Oh God. There is another hill behind this hill. Or, oh god, I don’t think I can go on. Kind of a simple prayer, I know. But it sometimes it’s all I have the energy or breath to speak.

Looking south upon
Lewiston, Idaho (left) and Clarkston, Washington (left).

We did make it to the top in just over an hour and just beyond the rise, as we left U.S. 95 and rode onto U.S. 195, we finally entered…Washington. The wheat and barley fields abound in this part of the Palouse Hills which cover parts of Idaho and Oregon and extend northward to the Columbia River. The fields are immense and we saw the harvest in action. Dozens of combines hugging the hills reaping in tons of grain. I think of all the cakes, pasta, donuts, crackers, cereals and beer(!) that are going to be made from this plentiful grain and I am thankful.

So with all of this activity of harvest the road traffic was quite heavy but not as dangerous. Since the timber trucks have disappeared fleets of grain trucks have replaced their absence making several trips between the fields and cooperative elevators. We are fortunate to now ride on a better paved highway with a wide shoulder. We can hope this continues on our last day of our ride tomorrow. Oh, God!

Where are we today?

2011-09-01T00:30:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Orofino - Lewiston, Idaho

Here is our route for Day 81. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 81

2011-09-01T00:29:00.000-03:00

Down the River

A short ride today allowed Walter to sleep in but not past the time the hotel offered breakfast. The Helgeson Hotel was a wonderful place to rest and offered a hot breakfast versus a continental breakfast. Sometimes its places like this that we don’t want to leave so soon and could stay a couple of days to relax and explore the community. But then Linda would wonder why her boys were not home on Friday afternoon.

Leaving Orofino we braved the traffic again on our last leg of the narrow and winding road leading to Lewiston. Along the way Walter and I were separated by miles and minutes. I arrived in Lewiston after he did as he must have passed me while I was at a rest area. Since he was ahead of me and did not know where we were lodging for the evening he kept on going. He even went beyond where the Clearwater and Snake Rivers meet…which means he was in Clarkston, Washington! I can’t believe he beat me to Washington.

Walter relaxing and talking to Mom on the phone after tough
day of cycling in the hot sun. Check out the tan lines!

After a couple of phone calls we were back together again and ready to rest up in Lewiston. We ordered our regular meal of a large pizza and a 2-Liter bottle of Dr. Pepper. All of this quickly disappeared. I could say we are “carbing” up for tomorrow’s ride.

I can hardly believe the end of our journey is nearly here. We have one more difficult climb in the morning and looking out or our hotel window I can see the sunset highlighting the Lewiston Hill. Over 2,000 feet of a basalt rock hill looms before us.

Where are we today?

2011-08-31T11:56:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Lowell - Orofino, Idaho

Here is our route for Day 80. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 80

2011-08-31T11:55:00.000-03:00

Nature’s Convenience Store

Reflections upon a calm portion of the Clearwater River.

Since we arrived in Lowell at sunset I did not realize the change in scenery that was to occur today. We started today at the confluence of the Lochsa and Selway Rivers, where they become the Middle Fork of the Clearwater River. From the small streams at the top of the Lolo Pass and multitudes of small creeks and waterfalls this river has grown significantly in size. I can appreciate why so many thrive on the excitement of whitewater rafting in this part of Idaho filled with mountains and canyons.

Mad In Boston team cycling on U.S. 12.

U.S. Highway 12 today became busier with traffic, especially truck traffic. And to increase our anxiety the winding road along the river, is fenced with concrete Jersey Barricade’s for several miles. As before too many trucks did not appreciate sharing the road with others, especially cyclists. We were not the only cyclists on the road and for the first time we came across a group who were traveling across the U.S. We had a chance to rest and talk as I arrived in Orofino ahead of Walter. And in those few short minutes we all shared with similar understanding the joy of seeing America, the dangers of the road and the love of our great nation. If you would like, you can read more about their travels at Mad in Boston.

For the first time Walter and I ate some healthy food and it was free (Well sort of.)! As we descended further on the Clearwater and watched the landscape give way to Ponderosa Pines, tall buttes and more arid air we came across blackberries! Miles of thickets lined the road before coming into Kooskia and of course I had to indulge in the ripening berries. As I said the only cost for partaking in nature’s treat was the threat of the vine’s thick thorns. Well worth the handfuls we devoured.

Tomorrow we ride westward to Idaho’s lowest elevation (700 feet) and the furthest inland Pacific port of the western United States, Lewiston.

Where are we today?

2011-08-30T11:35:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Lolo Hot Springs, Montana - Lowell, Idaho

Here is our route for Day 79. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 79

2011-08-30T11:35:00.000-03:00

Regarding Montana

Rested rather well last night until God made a show of force. A thunderstorm rolled through early in the morning with much fury. The rain that drenched the mountains hopefully smothered some of the forest fires nearby.

Descending into Idaho we received this warning!
I lost count of how many twists and turns.

Comparing Montana to cycling in other states has me feeling indifferent. The roads overall are in very good condition. The Montana DOT has established good trails, signage and traffic education. But Montanan’s disdain toward cyclist is very evident. Whether it be the bullying attitude we have experienced by commercial truck drivers or those ignorant of sharing the road; it was not entirely fun. This became apparent when battling with local town traffic and our time in the storm near Big Timber when none stopped to give assistance. I don’t think I will bicycle here again.

Woke again a little later to a cool 52F morning. It is overcast as I type but I see blue skies appearing to our southwest. And closer by I am witness to clouds dancing across the forested green mountain tops. Pretty cool to be sitting outside, not sweating, few insects, listening to birds’ songs and finding a Wi-Fi signal outside of the Hot Springs pool area!

Along the Lochsa River.

These past two weeks we spent crossing Montana came to an end as we ascended to nearly a mile high at the Lolo Pass and began our long descent of more than 80 miles. Eventually ending up in Lowell we descended nearly 4,000 feet. That does not mean it was coasting all of the way but the pedaling was much easier as we meandered with the Lochsa (LOCK-saw) River. I carefully watched as the mountains appeared to grow larger the further we rode. It was a sight to see so many trees again. And with all of those Western Red Cedar and White Pines came humid air.

Bicycling in Idaho has started off well. And there really was not much traffic on U.S. 12. We were overwhelmed with the beauty of the Clearwater National Forest and recommend it to you to drive! Since we have now crossed over into Pacific Daylight Time we are feeling close to home and as we are on the doorstep of southeastern Washington. Just a few more days…

Where are we today?

2011-08-29T12:14:00.004-03:00

You can check our progress here: Missoula - Lolo Hot Springs, Montana

Here is our route for Day 78. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 78

2011-08-29T12:14:00.000-03:00

We said our farewells to Linda and Elizabeth at the Broadway Inn. What a great weekend for the family to be together again sharing stories of this past summer, catching up on what has been happening at home and brother and sister fighting again. Ah, good to see not too much has changed!

The girls’ departure sent them northwest toward and across the panhandle of Idaho on the quick route home. Walter and I finished up laundry and set out on U.S. 12 toward Lolo which then turns westward into the Bitterroot Mountains. These mountains, over 200 years ago, caused much concern for Lewis & Clark and the Corps of Discovery. Though they had knowledge of the Washington and Oregon territories and parts of the massive Columbia River, their knowledge of the land east of there and west of the Missouri River was lacking. This was the primary reason of why the push was on to explore the western frontier. They sought an overland route across the then newly purchased Northwest Territories added to the United States. Their frustrations led them to same route we ascended today. We had the highway (in good shape by the way) and they had Sacajawea and knowledgeable scouts from the Shoshone tribe. Still their passage was dangerous and difficult.

Firefighter's helicopter against a background of smoke.

Our passage was risky but with less traffic moving at high rates of speed. We are happy to be off the interstate even though Linda called 4 hours after leaving Missoula to tell us she was home. We could have given up and went home with her!?! No, we have just a little bit more of adventure left. Such as tonight. We made the short ride today to Lolo Hot Springs and relaxed in the geothermal pools coming from the granite rocks. Turns out to be a great way to soothe our aching muscles. Then off to sleep in one of the cabins we rented. It is cool out tonight with a hint of smoke in the air as firefighters are very active in this region putting out lightning-started fires.

Tomorrow I hope to write of our excellent ride downhill along the Lochsa and to the Clearwater River. It is downhill for, oh, about 80 miles or so.

Day 77

2011-08-27T20:16:00.002-03:00

A day of rest.

Day 76

2011-08-27T01:07:00.005-03:00

Put to Rest

A river runs through it?

We are thankful to have ridden 3,000 miles on our original tires. But after examining both of our tires closely and finding rips, tears, bulges & exposed braids we decided…it was time. Time to pray that we would make it to Missoula where the nearest bicycle stores would be able to help us. We were successful in completing the ride along the Clark Fork River safely on those very thin tires. Of course the bike store was gracious enough to take a lot of my money for the 4 new tires that we installed on our bikes. And what a difference in the ride!

If you click to enlarge you can see some of tire damage.

The travel-sized tire pump we carried was also old (purchased in 1994!) and the rubber seals were not working well anymore. Along with the purchase of a brand new hand operated tire pump I also purchased a CO₂ tire inflator. A simple valve attaches to the tire valve stem and the 16-20 gram CO₂ cylinder screws into the valve and “poof” your tire is inflated to about 85 psi. I tried to be thrifty by not purchasing this at the start of our trip. I really could have saved some headaches by adding this $20 item to my tool kit.

Casino Open?

So one tire pump and four worn tires have been put to rest. And two tired cyclists are ready to rest too, because the surprise I mentioned yesterday has arrived! My wife and daughter drove from Cheney, about 200 miles, to visit us on this last weekend of our adventure. Bless their hearts!

Where are we today?

2011-08-27T01:07:00.004-03:00

You can check our progress here: Drummond - Missoula, Montana

Here is our route for Day 76. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Where are we today?

2011-08-25T20:46:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Rocker - Drummond, Montana

Here is our route for Day 75. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 75

2011-08-25T20:45:00.001-03:00

Down in the Valley.

We woke to a light rain shower. Not a show stopper but it did get us muddy before getting on the Interstate. And as hoped for, today was a real good ride! While enjoying the downhill ride with fair winds at our backs we passed our next degree of latitude, 46 degrees north. A good signal of just how close we are to home.

As our northern route turned to the west we found ourselves flanked by the Flint Creek Mountains to the south and the Garnet Mountains to the north. The broad valley disappeared behind us and the ranches have come closer together in this narrow valley.

I can see the Clark Fork River we followed from Butte is responsible for this carving following the Missoula Floods from millennia ago. This popular fly fishing river eventually drains into Idaho’s Lake Pend Oreille (PEN-doh-ray) but I don’t believe we will follow that route past Missoula. In fact we are now on track to get into Missoula, a center point of five valleys, tomorrow. We have worked hard to cover this many miles, climbs over mountains and down valleys. Why? Who knows? Perhaps we will be surprised by some very important person’s tomorrow night!

Where are we today?

2011-08-24T20:21:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Whitehall - Rocker, Montana

Here is our route for Day 74. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 74

2011-08-24T20:20:00.001-03:00

Over the Top

Finally a day or at least a morning without wind. Of course we were making our own wind as Walter and I were heavy breathing ascending over 2,000 feet on a 6% grade to Homestake Pass. I think it should be renamed Heatstroke Pass.

After nearly 8 miles uphill we approached the Continental Divide. Not the only hydrological divide in our nation, this great separation of the Americas drains waters flowing to the Atlantic from the Pacific. This was a significant accomplishment for us and, in a way, this is a gateway to our home in Cheney, Washington. We did celebrate the crossing but not with champagne or a party but rather with changing another flat tire. We will NOT forget this crossing.

Quickly coming down the western slope of this range of the Rockies we entered Butte. Originally we had planned this shorter day (mileage) not knowing how many hours we might take climbing the pass. We did well on time using up just over two hours of cycling uphill. So we use this time of rest to get ready to ride up and down Deer Lodge Valley tomorrow. By up I mean our heading will be north and by down I mean the elevation of Butte is over 5,500 feet and our route to along I-90 is one long down slope to Missoula (just over 3,200 feet). Sweet!

Where are we today?

2011-08-24T09:54:00.000-03:00

You can check our progress here: Bozeman - Whitehall, Montana

Here is our route for Day 73. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 73

2011-08-24T09:50:00.000-03:00

Cycle-logy?

Before setting off today we looked up a bicycle shop in Bozeman to repair Walter’s bike. For once my bike wasn’t broken! A quick ride down the street to Chalet Sports and a couple hours of work and he had a new seat, new brake pads, adjustment and tightening the head set (where the handle bar stem feeds through to the front fork) and replacing his first broken spoke. Imagine that.

Descent from near Doherty Mountain
with the Rockies in front of us.

We were on the road by noon; not ideal as the heat of day was coming on. The first 30 miles went well as we descended toward Three Forks. So named by Lewis & Clark expedition of the Northwest Territory. The Jefferson, Madison & Gallatin Rivers form the confluence of the Missouri River. So, in spite of the heat I tried to imagine the Corps of Discovery coming up to this area with their dwindling supplies but still exploring and documenting this part of the country over 200 years ago. And they did this without hotels, air conditioning or even Wi-Fi!

Several forest fires painted our sunset with fantastic colors.

Departing from this valley we ascended the foothills that lead to this part of the Rocky Mountains. The terrain is not always as it appears as we climbed near the mile high point. Often we see a goal in the distance and think, “That’s not so bad.” And actually it is! Or another “pysch out” is when we see a community’s water tower, eyeball what the distance might be and it seems like it moves further away the closer we get! And then the worst trick comes when we finish climbing a difficult hill and find that the top is just the bottom of another hill! Today was a day like that and I felt the “elephant on my chest.” Heart attack? No, just difficulty breathing at this altitude and pedaling and trying to stay hydrated. We both made it and were rewarded with a four-mile coast downhill into Cardwell.

I believe these big climbs this past week have helped up prepare for the biggie tomorrow. That is when we will cross the Continental Divide.

Where are we today?

2011-08-23T11:37:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Big Timber - Bozeman, Montana

Here is our route for Day 72. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 72

2011-08-23T11:36:00.000-03:00

Earth, Wind & Fire

We really enjoyed our lodging and rest at The Grand Hotel in Big Timber. A century-old hotel with western décor, 10-foot tall ceilings, traditional woodwork and antique furniture. Though the bathrooms are separate from the bedrooms (how European!) this was not an inconvenience. And to top off a hot breakfast included, all for just $75! Should you find yourself on I-90 needing a great place to stay in Big Timber, I recommend this place.

Looking south at Chestnut Mountain in Bozeman Canyon.

After that much needed rest we hoped today would be easier with the first 30 miles being fairly level. We knew that departing Livingston on the latter part of our ride would be difficult as we had a 12+ mile climb up the Bridger Mountains to Bozeman Pass. Gravity was our ever present reminder of just how steep a 6% grade can be. Then add in the wind. We rode through a 12-15 mph headwind coming at us all day long which slowed us to a very slow 8-9 mph, but at least we were moving ahead! You know that really took the joy from coasting into Bozeman on the downside of the pass. And then to complete the trio was the unrelenting sun that pushed the temperature in this dry environment to the mid 90s. Another day, another struggle.

Into the west. Looking east from Bozeman Pass.

As mentioned we passed through Livingston and said farewell to the Yellowstone River as it turned southward to Wyoming. We have been fortunate to follow or cross several rivers on this trip that have shaped America both physically and culturally. Most, if not all, have stories associated with them; some grand (Lewis & Clark, Economic Successes) and some tragic (Indian Reservations, White Settlement, Revolutionary War). Our country is what it is; a grand nation that in spite of setbacks has been formed by hard work and defended so that we can pass it along to our children. My hope and prayer is that Walter better appreciates this inheritance.

“Each generation goes further than the generation preceding it because it stands on the shoulders of that generation. You will have opportunities beyond anything we've ever known.” Ronald Reagan

Where are we today?

2011-08-22T11:16:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Billings - Big Timber, Montana

Here is our route for Day 71. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 71

2011-08-22T11:15:00.000-03:00

Brave or Foolish, revisited

This was a day to test my patience and resolve. We had planned a lengthy ride to Big Timber with plenty of stops for rest along the way. And though the elevation was uphill all day, gaining nearly 1,000 feet, I thought we could do it.

Snow? The Beartooth Mountains nearly 50 miles away.

From the outset Walter started experiencing muscle cramps in his leg muscles. Usually our day of rest helps heal these maladies allowing our muscles to build back up. Or so it has been for me. As Walter fell further behind I slowed to wait, repeatedly. And though he did not complain out loud when I was near I expect he did when the pain was more intense. This tested both of our endurance. But he stayed on task and with the help of medication to address the pain he was able to keep on going…just slower. He is stronger than I realize.

After lunch at Subway we meandered along with the Yellowstone River through steep-walled canyons and imposing buttes. The interstate was buzzing with traffic; never did one minute go by without some loud vehicle zooming by in either direction. With our elevation gain we could see further, including to our southwest the Beartooth Mountains. Kind of took my breath away when I considered cycling over those 10,000 foot mountains. But this was not our path today and the road turned away from that range.

Of course we found this sign after the storm!

As the Crazy Mountain range came into our line of sight and about 20 miles from our destination, the horizon turned a dark blue-gray and the air cooled rapidly. The previous town and shelter was further behind us than the Rest Area 5 miles ahead. Surely we could make it there in time to ride out this threatening storm – no we could not. Making progress in the strengthening winds and within 2 miles of our goal we were hit with shifting wind and gusts. Later researched, I found that we endured 39 mph wind with gusts to 51 mph! The storm started with wind and clouds of dust, but then came the rain. Not a deluge but rather wind-driven bullets that stung our burnt skin. We dismounted our bikes at one point, as it we could no longer safely control out direction and walked beside them; now just over a mile from the Rest Area. Cars and trucks continued on beside us with none stopping to offer assistance. I currently have a very poor opinion of Montanans! The wind did subside enough for us to ride to shelter the last mile. And we waited there for the storm to blow by.

Sunset in the Big Sky state over the Crazy Mountains.

As it calmed and we once again rode, we found that just those 2 miles took nearly an hour to cover. We are thankful to have persevered and don’t really care to repeat our foolishness again. The wind was very difficult but debris driven in the wind could have been tragic. Just before our exit we did see a tractor-trailer tipped on its side with the cab crushed in. The driver was receiving medical care as we passed. It seems foolishness to press on, got the better of him.

Where are we today?

2011-08-20T00:49:00.000-03:00

You can check our progress here: Hardin - Billings, Montana

Here is our route for Day 69. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 69

2011-08-20T00:48:00.000-03:00

Three Millenniums

Leaving Hardin we rode west on Interstate 90. Montana does not have restrictions to cyclists riding on the interstate, but still we used extra caution as we rode carefully on the 10 foot wide shoulder. This safer, paved road that will lead us to Missoula later next week.

The shoulder was mostly smooth and the grade eased climbing the surrounding mountains and buttes. We worked our way up two hard climbs and were rewarded with a down-slope of 2 miles then 4 miles. It is very satisfying to have sweat that much, even in this dry climate, and then feel how quickly a person can dry off going downhill at 30 mph. Cresting the second hard climb also showed us the beautiful valley created by the Yellowstone River. Once again we are in territory explored by two of my favorite historical figures – Meriwether Lewis and William Clark.

As we settle in to our hotel here in Billings Walter and I are pleased to say that today on route through the mountains of Montana we celebrated passing the 3,000 mile mark! It is now much easier to look back and see how much ground we have covered; 3 Canadian provinces, 11 States, 2 large bodies of water and innumerable rivers and small towns. The countdown begins and if all goes well we should be back in Cheney by Labor Day weekend, saving the best views for last…my family!

Today was our last day on the road this week. Time to rest, stay out of the sun and enjoy a movie or two at the local cinema. Lastly, thanks to Facebook, I found a high school classmate who was transiting Billings with her family coming from Glacier National Park. Thank you Mike and Rene for taking a few moments for lunch with us and trying to cover 25+ years of life since high school!

Where are we today?

2011-08-18T21:21:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Ashland - Hardin, Montana

Here is our route for Day 68. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 68

2011-08-18T21:12:00.002-03:00

Lonesome Highway, part 2

We found out last night that attempts to communicate via internet or cell phone were futile, as it appears to these travelers; Ashland is a black hole. Additionally the accommodations were modest but we were thankful to have a hot shower and bed.

Where there is water...there is life.
The Tongue River in Ashland, Montana.

As we woke early this morning we said our farewells to our friend Charlie as he prepared to head southward and we trekked westward into the Northern Cheyenne & Crow Indian Reservations. The air was crisp and cool at 61F and had a hint of autumn. In fact it was cool enough that Walter and I chose to wear our jackets once again, for the first time in weeks!

We weren’t exactly sure what to expect as we traveled through these parts, being two white guys, on bicycles, crossing 60+ miles of U.S. Highway 212. But our safety was not our concern; available food and drink were. As mentioned in previous posts this lonesome highway has a very distinct beauty that adds to the Wild West flavor of the land. But not planning in advance by bringing plenty of supplies can make you quickly forget the beauty as you switch to survival mode. We did locate a Trading Post in Lame Deer and were able to satisfy our appetites that lasted until we once again located Interstate 90. It now feels like the diversion was worth the 60 miles saved and we are back in familiar territory.

I can tell you that seeing this part of Montana with an array of sage, rust and tan earth tones is a site that is something to behold. I even took time to stop at the top of our first difficult climb today and just…listen. Not too much traffic, just the sound of birds and horses on the adjacent ranch and the wind whistling through the Ponderosa Pines. I can see why Native Americans appreciate this part of their world. It is almost mystical.

Where are we today?

2011-08-18T20:47:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Broadus - Ashland, Montana

Here is our route for Day 67. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest

Day 67

2011-08-18T20:43:00.000-03:00

Lonesome Highway, part 1

We slept in some today, leaving about 10 a.m. The route was shorter today because our stop in Ashland, Montana provided the only hotel for many miles. Also we did not mind fewer miles because there were not any towns, convenience stores or food throughout. Pretty good incentive to get where you are going!

"Standing on the shoulders of giants..." If you enlarge the photo
and see the car on the highway below, look to the left of it and
the small speck you see is Walter!

By this time a 45-mile ride is manageable and seems like a gift compared to other days. We did have one difficult climb of 800 feet up to Camps Pass which is set atop Home Creek Butte. Even though I like to make “good time” each day I took a moment to stop at the top and look back on the valley. Man! What a view. This photo does not quite capture what I felt when looking back 15 miles of roller coaster highway that ribbons to the horizon.

Walter, Charlie and Wes above and west of the Tongue River valley and Cook Mountain on the horizon.

Previously I had heard from my friend from Cheney, Washington. Charlie shared that he was traveling eastward through Montana on his own holiday and wanted to meet us as we headed toward Interstate 90. And so we did so in Ashland and shared in multiple conversations regarding family, church, small towns, travel and, of course, solving the world’s problems. There was no lack of quiet as we shared the evening meal. It was a short but welcome visit and he even picked up the tab at dinner. He may have been surprised at the bill though after feeding two hungry cyclists! Seeing friends from home makes me realize we are really getting close to the end of our journey.

Where are we today?

2011-08-17T12:10:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Belle Fourche, South Dakota - Broadus, Montana

Here is our route for Day 66. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 66

2011-08-17T12:00:00.002-03:00

45 Degrees North

Today we crossed the 45^th parallel (North Latitude) and we are nearing home with over 800 miles to go. This point is the furthest north we have been since leaving Spokane two months ago. And the land has changed to one of unending prairie. There are few trees. And those that struggle for existence are the spruce, box elder and cottonwood crowded around a source of water.

On this Lonely Road from Belle Fourche Walter and I had prepared for the 90+ mile ride today. We had plenty of food and over two gallons of water and Gatorade to supplement if today was going to be another sizzling hot day. But surprises were in store. We woke early to get on our way before sunrise. The temperature was a cool and comfortable 61F with clear skies and did not warm too much today, that was good! What was not good? Wind, eternal wind. At the end of today’s route we struggled through a 20 mph headwind-all day. Averaging 8-9 mph was work but more frustrating, even depressing was just the idea of going so long at such a low rate of speed. I questioned myself more than once, “What’s the point of continuing?” and then wondered why I was talking to myself! Is this what depression feels like? We crossed threes states today (see link in posting above) and arrived safely in Broadus, Montana after more than 12 hours on the road with 9+ hours in the saddle.

Fantastic pastoral scene on the banks
of the Little Powder River in Montana.

Our rest here was welcome. And tomorrow will be challenging as we experience a shorter distance to Ashland but add in our first mountain pass and the highest elevation we will have experienced to date. Perhaps today was resistance and endurance training for the mountains to come.

Where are we today?

2011-08-15T21:51:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Box Elder - Belle Fourche, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 65. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 65

2011-08-15T21:50:00.001-03:00

Black Hills, Golden Sun

We expected a really difficult day of climbing through South Dakota’s Black Hills; instead it was just difficult…and hot. We rode along under a burning sun all day that darkened our skin a deep reddish brown. Though one revealing of our shorts and we see a stark contrast with the protected skin showing nearly fluorescent white thighs. I don’t think Linda is going to like our tan lines! But we made good time after we made one little stop.

Walter had been complaining of pain on the back of his right hand and today the swelling became very apparent. After stopping at a local Emergency Room he was informed that he has a cyst. The medics tried to evacuate the cyst but it has solidified and will have to be surgically removed…someday. Walter believes he can manage the pain with medication as we continue on toward home. Meanwhile we both will keep a close watch on this problem and his overall health.

We enjoyed a tailwind as passed through the mostly granite and some shale rock formations of the Black Hills. Those rocks don’t earn that name rather the Black Hills Spruce that, seen from miles away from the east, really does darken this isolated mountain range.

High Plains drifting to Belle Fourche.

The tailwind that we enjoyed also gave us a problem. When our speed on the bike matches the wind we had no air blowing over us to cool us. Like your car radiator it needs air forced through it to effectively cool. Likewise we were careful to slow down sometimes to cool off, and then speed up again to enjoy easy pedaling. And that was our day today. Tomorrow we face the big challenge of crossing the sparsely populated prairies of a small corner of Wyoming and then eastern Montana. Fewer hills, but still plenty of the baking sun.

Day 60 - 64

2011-08-14T22:57:00.001-03:00

Click to enlarge and you will see a surprise in the hills!

The 2011 Sturgis Rally is over. The roads are clear of most of that traffic and noise.

Walter and I have enjoyed our stay with Mike and Karen and tomorrow morning we bid them farewell. They have been great hosts to us as we have lived, toured, eaten and seen this beautiful part of the American West.

Walter heading off to the Badlands.

I think Walter especially enjoyed this time of rest as he toured (as a rider) on a 2003 Harley-Davidson Sport to the Badlands and to Sturgis as well. Along with that he loved Sheridan Lake in the Black Hills and learning to ride a wave runner! Good times and more good memories added to our two months on the road.

Now as we prepare to continue on our ride I realize this may be the most difficult part of our trip. Long and lonely roads with few people, stores or lodging. Perhaps the temperature will be cooler and the wind fair as we approach the Rocky Mountains. These climbs will take us over a mile high for the first time. Please pray for our safety, pace and patience as we set off on our last 1,000 miles to our home in Cheney, Washington.

Where are we today?

2011-08-10T00:39:00.004-03:00

You can check our progress here: Wall - Box Elder, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 59. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 59

2011-08-10T00:39:00.000-03:00

Sturgis & Sagebrush

We completed our short ride from the Badlands to Rapid City. My friends Mike & Karen, our hosts for the next few days, welcomed us to western South Dakota this evening. This bike trip has offered me several reunions with friends and family…I love it!

The temperature these last few days has been fantastic for bicycling. We have awakened to cool mornings in the 60s and calm days. In fact I had nearly forgotten the chill you can feel in this semi-arid climate. You know, when it’s a warm day and you are working hard ascending a 500 foot hill (OK, well maybe not that part) and sweating. Then a cloud temporarily shades you from the sun and you feel a chill as the wind quickly evaporates the sweat…well that at least that is what we felt today.

Walter and I will rest and relax as we wait for the Sturgis Rally to complete this weekend. The hotels north of here should have openings for us after the 200,000+ bikers start to clear out. We are going to enjoy these few days of rest in the Wild West, land of sagebrush.

Where are we today?

2011-08-08T21:27:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Kadoka - Wall, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 58. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 58

2011-08-08T21:27:00.000-03:00

Home on the Range

Regarding Kadoka 9 miles distant.

I have been recalling one of my favorite movies, Dances with Wolves, since we have been riding near the areas of South Dakota where this movie was principally filmed. I did not see any buffalo, cavalry soldiers or Lakota but I could see why this part of our country was chosen. I feel like I am in the Old West I have read about. I don’t know how to ride a horse but my bicycle suffices and the view was incredible!

Bad Boys, Bad Clouds, Badlands.

Mrs. Margaret Krumm. She was my fourth grade teacher and I still remember her to this day. One, for helping me pass the fourth grade and, two, for teaching me songs that I did not appreciate at that time of my life. As a nine-year-old I did not see why I had to learn old cowpoke songs like Cattle Call, Don’t Fence Me In or Home on the Range. But today those words and tunes were clear on my heart and mind as we rolled through the Buffalo Gap National Grassland. I am glad to have actually listened to my teacher. It was a fantastic day…thank you Mrs. Krumm!

The films, songs, books and other influences in my life led me to this point, enjoying today’s ride in pleasant weather with fair winds. Remembering the history of this place, the tragedies from the past like the Wounded Knee incident and the good, Native Americans and cowboys working at living together, peaceably.

The red man was pressed from this part of the West

He's likely no more to return,

To the banks of Red River where seldom if ever

Their flickering camp-fires burn

Home on the Range, verse 3 (John A. Lomax, 1910)

Where are we today?

2011-08-07T22:42:00.000-03:00

You can check our progress here: Murdo - Kadoka, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 57. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 57

2011-08-07T22:40:00.000-03:00

Time Travel

Some of the wildlife on the Great Plains?

An unusual fog greeted us this morning as we set off on a shorter ride across the plains just north of the White River valley and the Badlands. This region is normally quite dry, the fields of grass burnt brown during the height of summer. As some locals have told me the rainfall has been sufficient to keep the hills green for the first time in years. The fog was cool and welcome to ride in, though we would have enjoyed some clear views down in this green grass valley.

From the safety of our hotel.

Again the grasshoppers were leaping all around us, even sacrificing themselves in our wheel spokes and under our tires. Walter noticed at one point that massive amounts of squished grasshoppers were being consumed by live grasshoppers in the tire track of the lane. He warned me, “Dad! You’re riding in their buffet line!”

We made good time into Kadoka ahead of the approaching thunderstorm. This was the biggest storm we have seen in the last two months. We were thankful to have ridden early in the day.

Walter and I celebrated a small achievement today as we traveled back in time! I’ll bet you did not know we were riding Time Machines! Well not really, but we did pass into the Mountain Standard Time Zone. And because the county highway was barren of most vehicular traffic we rode side-by-side again. It was a good day.

Where are we today?

2011-08-07T09:46:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Oacoma - Murdo, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 56. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 56

2011-08-07T09:45:00.000-03:00

Attack of the Grasshoppers

The start up and out of the Missouri River valley should have been the difficult part of our ride today. But it wasn’t. And even the whole day, which was one long climb into the wind, should have been more challenging. Don’t get me wrong both presented the physical challenge but not like the emotional meltdown I had when Walter and I did not bicycle together.

Walter chooses to ride at a slower pace and follows along about 15 minutes behind me. Frustrating to me but OK, as long as he keeps on going. This morning he chose a path that we had not planned and cost us more time on the road. Add to it that neither of us have adequate cell phone coverage so that left me waiting for him. Friction. No need for further details other than to say today’s ride was longer than needed and much, much quieter.

These friendly motorcycle group from
Georgia did NOT want to trade bikes!

As I exited Interstate 90 and the thousands of motorcycles passing on their way to Sturgis I met with a small group from Georgia. Not too unlike Walter and I, they had been planning their trip for months and were excited. I was envious that while we only average 60+ miles a day they were covering 600 miles a day! But I understand the differences in our choice of transportation. The short time I spent talking with them was the highlight of my day.

(Click to Enlarge)

I feel now that we have entered the Great Plains, with trees rapidly disappearing even at our slow speed. The beautiful rolling hills are still green even in this drier environment. And I don’t think I have ever seen so many round bales of hay and straw doting the landscape. Along those fields we also found a nuisance - grasshoppers. Swarms of these pesky creatures were everywhere. Jumping from every direction like popcorn on the hot road and onto our bikes, our legs, our faces. They even were eating their unfortunate brethren who had been squished on the road. I did not know they were cannibals. We came through the swarm fine if not just a little grossed out.

(Click to Enlarge)

Where are we today?

2011-08-06T01:17:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Mitchell - Oacoma, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 55. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 55

2011-08-06T01:17:00.000-03:00

Further west into Dakota Territory

The terrain changed today. Gone now are the fields of corn and soybeans and in their place livestock with some crops of grass, wheat and some alfalfa. Or at least that is what I believe they were as most fields have been cut, raked and baled. Farmers that we saw today were loading round bales onto flat beds for transport to storage.

While we paralleled Interstate 90 on Old Highway 16 we watched huge volumes of traffic headed west. Of course most were the masses of motorcycles going to Sturgis but also campers, trailers and other support vehicles I would guess. At our convenience stops and even during supper tonight we noticed that nearly all of the motorcyclists were…older. I wonder if this is the aging crowd of today’s Harley Davidson riders or maybe just those who can afford the time and money to attend? Will we see a motorcycle in a handicapped parking spot?!

I found out today the smaller towns in this part of South Dakota sprung up from the days of the steam locomotive. In the late 1800s watering stations had to be placed no more than 12 miles apart as the locomotive would have to be refilled often on their cross state/country routes. And over time, train stops equaled people, which meant business and commerce and homes and schools. These smaller towns still seem alive, but for how long in today’s economy? Time will tell.

Tonight we rest in Oacoma, on the western shoreline of the Missouri River. To get to this point we rode on a portion of I-90 as this was the only available access across the Missouri River valley. Looking ahead there will be more days of riding on South Dakota and Montana interstates where this is the only road. They are well paved and broad-shouldered but one thing I did not expect is the loudness of vehicular noise. I will need to wear ear plugs tomorrow as we climb the long hill out of this valley.

Where are we today?

2011-08-04T23:09:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Canistota - Mitchell, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 54. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 54

2011-08-04T23:09:00.000-03:00

Rural

With the sunrise and the wind at our back we left the rural town of Canistota. We planned a shorter ride today since our next lodging reservations were in Mitchell. As we rode toward Emery I had the chance to finally bicycle with Walter, that is side by side. For those 15 miles west we only had 4 cars pass us and it was quiet, quiet enough for us to hear each other for once. We shared stories of the trip so far, at least the funny ones. How are Linda and Elizabeth faring without us. Walter’s future in college. And we even tried to solve some of the world’s problems. We’re still working on that last one.

Turning northwest from Emery we headed to the small town home of one of my friends, Jimmy Weber. He served in the Air Force along with me. While I worked aircraft maintenance for most of my career he was a musician. A singer and guitar player even now in his “retirement.” I am still a fan of his music. You can hear the influence of his Heartland roots here: jimmywebercountry.com

As we came into Mitchell and saw the Corn Palace we were approached by a photographer who wanted to take our photo, print it on postcards and give them to us free. Riiiiggghhhttt! Seen this one before. She explained they worked for Mitchell’s Chamber of Commerce (CoC) and it was true! After meeting more of the CoC folks we now have some postcards with free stamps! We also had to make a stop for another repair (yep, another broken spoke on my rear wheel). Had a great chat with the owner about our trip across North America, while he repaired and trued the wheel. Finishing the work he surprised me by saying, “No charge.” Wow, I am really liking South Dakota! Then we checked into our hotel and…well they wanted our money. Two out of three.

Where are we today?

2011-08-03T20:54:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Rock Rapids, Iowa - Canistota, South Dakota

Here is our route for Day 53. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 53

2011-08-03T20:53:00.000-03:00

Siouxland

I could hardly believe it. Each morning I prepare for another punishing day of cycling in the heat and humidity. While watching The Weather Channel, first seeing those who live in the southern states enduring weeks of triple-digit, high temperatures, then I saw the overnight low temperatures for Northwestern Iowa…62 degrees?! I opened our hotel room door and found it was cooler outside than in our room. Not only did we get to enjoy fantastically cool air on this morning’s ride, but also less humidity! I thanked God for a much better start today.

On the opposite side of the road the sign says, Welcome to Iowa.
But this is the welcome to South Dakota?! We are going to have
some difficulty complying with this law!

We approached the border of South Dakota in the far northwestern corner of Iowa when my trip computer registered 2,300 miles. Walter had earlier remarked, “Hey, Dad. We have biked farther than the riders on the Tour de France!” I laughed as this was both true and humorous but make no mistake; Walter and I are not athletes in this respect. We crossed the border and continued on in Siouxland.

For the past 200+ miles I have tolerated an increasingly irritating noise coming from my pedals. I had previously located a bike shop in Sioux Falls and stopped in to, again, purchase new pedals. The pedal bearings were bad and after replacing the pair - the noise persisted. The staff at Harlan’s Bike & Tour troubleshot further and found the bearing assembly in the bottom bracket (this is the support for your pedal crankset) was seizing and badly worn. They were not surprised after I told them of our journey. They quickly replaced the defective bearing assembly and soon we were on our way again. Now, I feel as though I have a stealth bike! If for some reason you should ever find yourself in need of some bicycle maintenance while in Sioux Falls…I highly recommend their services!

Crossing the Big Sioux River on State Route 42.

We enjoyed entering the countryside on our way to Canistota. The topography is again changing and more rapidly than I have seen at any time during our journey. There are still large fields of corn and soybeans but there are fewer trees. I wonder what tomorrow’s route will show us on our way to Mitchell and further to the Missouri River valley?

Where are we today?

2011-08-02T20:22:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Estherville - Rock Rapids, Iowa

Here is our route for Day 52. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 52

2011-08-02T20:17:00.000-03:00

Focus

State Route 9 was due west with few changes in direction today. We rode over small rolling hills that led up to mile 46 for us and Hawkeye Point, the highest point in Iowa at 1,670 feet. When I was younger these hills of Iowa that I explored seemed so much larger. They were mountains to me.

Our second day on the road after the long break and I had some trouble with motivation this morning. My legs weren’t too sore and the sun not yet too hot. But my thoughts were drifting. A dangerous thing when trying to balance on two wheels. I started to question, “Why am I doing this?” or “I could be sleeping in this morning?!” I was tired. Not physically tired but just…bored? I suppose the fried chicken I had for a second breakfast did not help. But I kept on going down the road with Walter.

After lunch in at the Sawbuck Café in Little Rock (Iowa, of course), Walter and I stepped outside and there was our nuisance again of heat and humidity. Though not as strong as yesterday it is that feeling that makes you want to turn around and go inside to seek air conditioning. Another de-motivator. I am not sure how but I got on my bike and kept going. Walter seemed to not be too affected by the heat. He does not consume as much water or sweat nearly as much as me. Not sure how he does it but he is always ready for me to pick up another Monster Energy Drink at the end of the day. We rest tonight. Tomorrow is predicted to be cooler and drier. Perhaps that will help me continue on into South Dakota.

Where are we today?

2011-08-01T22:51:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Northwood - Estherville, Iowa

Here is our route for Day 51. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 51

2011-08-01T22:50:00.000-03:00

Long Road Home

Tail Wind + Smooth Roads + Cooler Morning + Very Few Hills = One Great Ride today!

Said our farewells to Dad/Grandpa, thanking him for taking care of us, feeding us and more. I especially enjoyed driving his new truck! Before this past week I had hardly driven an automobile since June! When you think about it, it’s easy to drive an automobile. You have many of the controls at your fingertips as you sit in a form-fitting, comfortable seat. Too warm? Touch a switch. Want to listen to your favorite radio program? Touch another switch. And what about that large hill approaching? Step on the accelerator; unless of course you have set the cruise control, then you just let the system accelerate for you! It is easy to drive an automobile. And I had to ride a bike cross country to appreciate this?

Enjoying our 2nd Breakfast with my cousin and uncle.

As mentioned we had a great start on our route today. As we left Northwood we were met by Beverly, my uncle’s wife who hugged us farewell and made us some road snacks…very cool! As we headed west on State Route 105 we had planned on sharing breakfast with my cousin, Korin, in Lake Mills. We arrived at the Grand Café to another surprise, her dad, my Uncle Homer was there and my great aunt and uncle just happened to be enjoying their morning coffee also. This week has been an awesome visit with family in the Heartland where I was raised. I am blessed.

Bike Thieves in Lake Mills?!
No, just my great aunt and uncle checking out our rides.

Thankfully our good speed and cooler morning brought us safely into Estherville earlier than planned. By the time we arrived it was getting very uncomfortable in the humid afternoon. All is well now in another air conditioned hotel room. And so begins the second leg of our journey on this long road home.

Day 42 - 50

2011-07-31T19:00:00.001-03:00

After more than a week resting and relaxing in Iowa we capped off our visit with the Willand Family Reunion. Elizabeth flew in last week to visit as well, unfortunately Linda was not able to be here. There were family members that I had not seen in many years and likewise who had not seen us. With so many new faces perhaps, one day, we will have to wear name tags!

Family gathering in Swensrud Park, Northwood, Iowa

The long road home starts tomorrow. I don't think we will be breaking the 4,000 mile point on this trip as we have about 1,600 miles of riding to Cheney, Washington. Will Walter or I will be to disappointed with that? Not so much, as we are both anxious to get home.

Our bicycles have been washed, lubed and adjustments made. There is one more load of laundry. We will share a good meal with my father. And then we need to pack up our saddle bags for tomorrow...we ride.

Day 42

2011-07-23T23:05:00.001-03:00

A "few" days of rest and relaxation.

Where are we today?

2011-07-22T21:32:00.001-03:00

You can check our progress here: Austin, Minnesota - Northwood, Iowa

Here is our route for Day 41. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 41

2011-07-22T21:31:00.001-03:00

Hometown at the Top of Iowa

Relaxed and slept in a little today. My sister, Sara, joined us for lunch at Perkins before we headed off on the short jaunt to Iowa. We caught up some on family matters and she invited Walter and I over for a meal next week. Free food? Of course we accepted!

Following the Cedar River south of Austin brought us near the state line with Iowa. We rode west to catch a highway south into Iowa. At a point near London, Minnesota we came along a driver in a Chevy Silverado who at first I thought was having vehicle problems. As I came closer and slowed I recognized…my Dad! He knows all of the roads in this area. And was “informed” as to our route which made it easy for him to intercept us. This was a welcome surprise. After a short break and declining his offer to take some of our load (saddle bags) we pressed on for Northwood. While I have visited my hometown often, it has been many, many years since bicycling here. An eerie calm came over me as I remembered some of these streets that I used ride when bicycling in from the countryside.

Walter and I had to stop in town to visit one of our biggest fans while we have been on the road. My grandmother was excited to see us and even tolerated our sweaty hugs. I have kept her up-to-date on our progress so she was eager to see us. I promised after this short visit that Walter and I would come back next week so she could have a look at us all cleaned up, presentable and we could share some of our adventure. My grandma is still cool after 99 years.

Where are we today?

2011-07-21T18:02:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Preston - Austin, Minnesota

Here is our route for Day 40. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 40

2011-07-21T18:01:00.000-03:00

Heartland

Leaving Preston, Minnesota

One more hill and we left the bluffs of southeastern Minnesota. A cold front had also moved in last night providing us relief from the oppressive heat of the past several days. The sunrise was clear behind us though a massive thunderstorm cell quickly moved up, northeast from Nebraska. We could see the distant outlines of pink and blue-gray cumulonimbus clouds above the distant horizon. The thunderstorm did not make us seek shelter but did block much of the sun keeping the morning temperature at a comfortable 77F. No rain, no lightning – no complaints here.

Now this is the land I am familiar with, the Heartland. Having grown up in north Iowa I easily recognized this landscape of fewer trees and larger fields. The fields are filled with tassling corn and soybeans that spread over the rows they were planted in. And we also rode among the giant wind turbines. Dozens and dozens of these turbines were turning in time even in the light breeze. I can only imagine how much electricity this is providing. I had read concerns of people who think this green source of energy is a nuisance because of the noise they make. We were traveling on a county highway, no traffic for miles and I stopped to listen, to see if this was true. The turbine nearest me, about 300 yards, gently swooshed by the tower every few seconds but I really had to listen as the farm equipment a mile away was louder.

We rest one more night on the road here in Austin, Minnesota. Hmm, my sister works here in Austin…I wonder if she would like to spend some lunch time with her sweaty brother and nephew? I hope so. Tomorrow we journey the last few miles to arrive, at last, at my Father’s farm. We are looking forward to the rest.

Where are we today?

2011-07-20T21:30:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: La Crosse, Wisconsin - Preston, Minnesota

Here is our route for Day 39. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 39

2011-07-20T21:29:00.002-03:00

2K Milestone

Crossing the mighty Mississippi.

The Great River was beneath us as the sun rose above Wisconsin and we entered Minnesota. This was the first milestone and the next was to come near a small Minnesota town. As we wound our way along State Route 16 we entered the mile-wide Root River Valley. We still navigated around and over large hills of limestone rock overgrown with trees, but now they were becoming smaller as we traveled further westward, gaining altitude.

Fantastic Scenery along Minnesota's Root River Valley.

Leaving Houston, Minnesota we found a trailhead to the Root River Bicycle Trail. Not only did we enjoy more than 35 miles of a well maintained and mostly level trail but we were thrilled to watch our bike odometers trip past 2,000 miles! Have we really gone that far? Apparently so. And been gone that long? My wife would be quick to say, “Yes!” When we check in with her daily she helps motivate us to keep on moving as she misses her two boys.

Passing through Lanesboro we were
treated to a drive-in Antique Car Show.

Another benefit of riding the trail today was a respite from much of the direct sunlight. More than 70% of our time on the trail today was shaded by interwoven tree branches overhead. That drop in temperature was a relief to Walter and I. And without the deafening traffic we could better hear a variety of bird songs. I am not as adept as my Father at recognizing and matching birds to songs, but the few I do know such as Blue Jay, Goldfinch, Cardinal and Crane serenaded us. While others such as the Red-winged Blackbird defended their turf and then there is the ever present Crow. You may recognize the distinct caw of the Crow. I mainly notice this when we are going slowly up hill, breathing heavily and hear that caw. Actually it sounds like “Haw”. This bird will probably be laughing at us all the way home to Washington.

Where are we today?

2011-07-19T22:07:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Hillsboro - La Crosse, Wisconsin

Here is our route for Day 38. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 38

2011-07-19T22:07:00.000-03:00

Middle-earth

Finding our way along County Road P.

It was just after sunrise as we set off west from Hillsboro, Wisconsin. Nearly every exterior surface was covered in condensation, and heavy fog and mist lay in the low-land valleys and fields. It seemed we were in one of J.R.R. Tolkien’s stories traveling through Middle-earth seeing first-hand the Misty Mountains and Mirkwood forest! Well it felt that way, though we saw no evidence of dragons or hobbits. After 25 miles we ascended that fog-shrouded valley and came into Kickapoo Valley which was occupied by several Amish farms. Interesting way of life that I wonder if I would have the strength to live in a simpler manner.

Island hills of sand/limestone covered in green forest.

We enjoyed fantastic views in the Western Uplands and in spite of being soaked with sweat the air was not too hot…yet. But we knew of the heat advisory warning us of temperatures that would feel like the low 100s. So we pressed on as the unblinking sun started to steam-bake us.

Yes, someone really did drive their
lawn mower to the Coon Valley mercantile.

The last community we explored before coming to Wisconsin’s border was Coon Valley and I was reminded of another bit of folklore, this one more close to where I grew up in Iowa. Coon Valley, a small Norwegian community of 417 people has a tavern, mercantile/grocery, Lutheran and Catholic Church and more. These made me think of Garrison Keillor’s fictional Lake Woebegon! Paralleled by the Sidetrack Tap, Ralph’s Pretty Good Grocer, Lake Woebegon Lutheran Church and Our Lady of Perpetual Responsibility Catholic Church. Again, it seemed that way but the heat of the day quickly allowed me to leave those idle thoughts behind as we struggled up and over the 2 mile long hill that led to the Mississippi River and our last lodging in La Crosse. Tomorrow we cross that Great River and go deeper into the Heartland.

Where are we today?

2011-07-18T20:44:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Wisconsin Dells - Hillsboro, Wisconsin

Here is our route for Day 37. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 37

2011-07-18T20:44:00.000-03:00

Dodging Lightning

Today we entered the Western Upland region of Wisconsin. Leaving the Wisconsin River valley reintroduced us to hills, many, steep hills. Couple that with the soggy, warm blanket of humidity and you understand why we were sweating even before getting on our bikes.

Constantly wiping the sweat from our eyes offered pastoral scenes along today’s short route. Where the land was more level, farms dotted the landscape. It was difficult to discern sometimes where the farms ended and the small towns began. Even more striking were the countless islands of limestone/sandstone that were entirely covered in trees of oak, maple, hickory and some white pine. Both beautiful and difficult to navigate at the same time left me loving and hating this route at the same time.

Model D John Deere stands vigil forever

We did hole-up for over an hour while waiting on one thunderstorm to pass and racing before another bore down on us. We found it far easier to dodge lightning from the shelter of a building. While waiting for the storm to pass we chatted with two bike riders who had come north from the Chicago area and were now exploring the Wisconsin 400 State Trail. Now this four seasons trail is not that long but takes its name from the former Chicago - Northwestern passenger train that traveled 400 miles between Chicago and Minneapolis/St. Paul in 400 minutes. History just keeps finding us every day.

Anyway we were impressed with these two coming through parts of Wisconsin that we did not see. And likewise we shared with them our story of biking across North America. They were surprised that we had journeyed this far. Feeling puffed up, I took a little pride in this and then, tonight, was quickly humbled when I looked at our map…we still have so far to go. One hill, one town, one day at a time.

Day 36

2011-07-17T23:37:00.000-03:00

A day of rest and relaxation. [Click photos to enlarge]

Pre-Cambrian sandstone accenting the Wisconsin River

Exploring the Wisconsin River

Wisconsin River exploding over the bow of our Jet Boat Tour

Day 35

2011-07-16T22:53:00.002-03:00

A day of rest and relaxation.

Where are we today?

2011-07-15T22:30:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Fond Du Lac - Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin

Here is our route for Day 34. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 34

2011-07-15T22:29:00.000-03:00

The Smell of Money

Another overcast day greeted us as we left Fond Du Lac. Also, rough roads. I remember these type of roads that are blistered in the summer sun and frost-heaved in the winter. So we received an upper body workout with every 10-20 yards along the road…ka-chunk, ka-chunk, ka-chunk.

Saving big money on gas!

The topography revealed more farms with cattle with supporting crops of corn, soybeans, alfalfa and wheat. And as you might guess this land of fewer trees and more, hundreds more milking cows is “America’s Dairyland.” Along with that more tractors hauling their gleaming chrome trailers full of milk destined for market. More tractor-trailers meant more close calls for us. Some drivers are very aware of our presences and some seem oblivious. Or perhaps the “I am bigger than you, get off my road” mentality persists. Regardless don’t fret for today we are alright and we continue to spread the message of Sharing the Road.

As we rolled along we were aware of cattle farms before we came close to any barns, silos or other farm buildings. My father told me one time that that was the smell of money. But I never have seen one cent in that manure.

Where are we today?

2011-07-14T21:16:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Ludington, Michigan - Fond Du Lac, Wisconsin

Here is our route for Day 33. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 33

2011-07-14T21:16:00.000-03:00

Embark

Farewell! Bon Voyage!

My friend Charlie, back in eastern Washington must to be envious. He is an aficionado of all things that ride our railroads and in particular the bygone era of steam locomotives. I wish he were here with us to enjoy our voyage on this “Steam Locomotive of the Great Lakes.”

As we departed my friend’s home we said our final farewell, or so I thought, on our way to the docks. We were able to purchase our tickets and quickly board the car ferry. Though a bit pricey we were excited to embark across Lake Michigan to Manitowoc, Wisconsin on a four-hour cruise.

After the ship was secured and mooring lines released we felt the coal-fired steam engine rumble and we were propelled forward. Then the ship’s horn announced our departure…loudly! The reverberation sounded far inland for a few seconds even after the horn stopped blowing. As we watched the marina, shores and lighthouse slide past us, we looked down along the quay and there were our friends, excitedly waving us a bon voyage. That was an incredible feeling. A great time of fellowship and followed with a memorable farewell. And here we did not have any confetti to throw or champagne to toast.

Sunset upon Lake Michigan from Ludington

Back on the road. The ride to the ferry was only 5 ½ miles this morning so once in Wisconsin, we decided to get further down the road to Fond Du Lac though we knew we would arrive late. This would put us closer to our next destination of Wisconsin, Dells. Once there tomorrow we will enjoy our day (or two) of rest. And if there happens to be several water parks for us to enjoy, then I guess we will just have to indulge.

Day 32

2011-07-13T23:41:00.003-03:00

A day of rest and relaxation.

Day 31

2011-07-13T00:01:00.004-03:00

Going Coastal

The SS Badger sailing past Ludington North Pier Lighthouse

We left the cabin lodge of Baldwin after a restful night. What a great place to stay. We looked forward to the shorter ride today and also visiting friends in Ludington. Jim and Tami allowed us to stay at their home and even fed us…it’s great to have a homemade meal. Of course over mealtime there was a lot of reminiscing of our old Air Force days. I was stationed with these friends in Omaha a decade ago. A long time ago.

Lake Michigan sunset

The ride was downhill to the coast of Lake Michigan, another fantastic treasure of America. We will see more of this lake as we cross on the SS Badger on Thursday. In the meantime we are going to sightsee and relax for a short time here, enjoying food, friends and fellowship.

Where are we today?

2011-07-13T00:01:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Baldwin - Ludington, Michigan

Here is our route for Day 31. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Where are we today?

2011-07-11T23:13:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Clare - Baldwin, Michigan

Here is our route for Day 30. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 30

2011-07-11T23:13:00.000-03:00

A Period of Time

One very large squall line approaching from Lake Michigan

We enjoyed a restful stay at the Doherty Hotel in Clare, Michigan. Great rates, full breakfast included and the room was comfortable. Could have stayed another day but we needed to get back on the road today.

On the news this morning we did see a magnificent storm forming over Lake Michigan, but decided to start the trip and see how far we could get. Turns out not very far. Light rain showers aren’t so bad to ride in. But lightning is another matter. I have read about people who survived being struck by lightning. I would rather not have that personal experience.

The thunderstorm hit as we transited the small community of Surrey Lake, once again on the Pere Marquette Rail Trail. For 2 hours we sheltered up at a restaurant waiting for the severe part to pass. We were chatted up by some locals and helped with regional information. Another great example of strangers interested in what (in the world!) we were doing and they especially recommended enjoying Ludington on the coast of Lake Michigan. I think we will.

As we arrived at today’s destination of Reed City we found the one and only hotel did not have rooms available. So we pressed on to Baldwin, another 17 miles, and now are relaxing in the comfortable Batcke’s Baldwin Creek Lodge, a fly fishing paradise it seems.

Today was to be an easy day of only 40 miles. You think we would learn that there are no easy days! After being on the road for a month now we are better able to see our progress that we have made - over 1,600 miles! We feel stronger, are better able to endure long days on the road and not so intimidated by what lies ahead. Soon we enter the Midwest, the Heartland, where I grew up. And we are eager!

Day 29

2011-07-10T21:16:00.001-03:00

A day of rest.

Where are we today?

2011-07-10T00:02:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Saginaw - Clare, Michigan

Here is our route for Day 28. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 28

2011-07-10T00:01:00.000-03:00

Health & Consequences

Lake Huron near Lexington, Michigan

Hot weather was predicted for today. We decided to wake before sunrise in Saginaw so that we could beat the heat. But then we noticed something. After yesterday’s exertion we found that we were not feeling 100%, not even close. Too much sun and heat for too long had really taken a lot out of us. Also, did you know that sun-block helps block most of the sun’s ultra-violet rays…but not all of them?! So we weren’t exactly sunburned, just well done! I wondered if/how we would become accustomed to increasing temperatures as we go further inland. We are adjusting our route and timing of cycling to better compensate for any extremes.

Concerning our route, we have had to make route changes before. Now we need to detour across Lake Michigan (by ferry) as Upper Michigan is a bit out of our reach and time to come back into Wisconsin. But this change will be a setback for me as I was hoping to go over the Mackinac Bridge. This bridge connects Michigan’s Upper and Lower peninsulas through the straits. I thought I had planned the timing well but did not build in time for “throttling back” due to health, weather or bike maintenance issues.

And of course I need some more bike maintenance. As the last bike shop told me, “You are going to break more spokes.” How depressingly prophetic. And so I have. But at least we have put on 600 miles since the last break. As we head toward Ludington I see there is a Bike Shop there that I can limp my bike to for repair. A special tool is needed to remove the gear ring set off the back wheel and then a tool-fixture for re-truing the wheel to eliminate that wobble.

Riding along the Pere Marquette Rail to Trail near Coleman, Michigan

Though today was a short ride for us since we were not feeling so well, we did have the opportunity to ride on a portion of the Pere Marquette Rail to Trail. More than 25 miles of paved former railroad bed. And a gravel trail continues on from here further west to the coast. A great example of this local community in partnership with Rails-to-Trails Conservancy at creating a recreational opportunity for many. In spite of our needing more rest this trail was a welcome change.

Where are we today?

2011-07-08T22:31:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Port Huron - Saginaw, Michigan

Here is our route for Day 27. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 27

2011-07-08T22:31:00.000-03:00

Signs and Lines

I had not thought about the weather phenomena of fog. Other weather sure, but not a temperature inversion form Lake Huron causing poor visibility. As Walter and I set out, we were literally soaked, drinking in the misty air. Thankfully our highlighter green wear made us visible and our rear strobes announced us to passing vehicles. And we could clearly see the bike lanes we rode in.

Riding north on State Route 25 we saw blue skies near Lexington and also Lake Huron. Beautiful, big and blue. Quite a thing to see when you consider it is not an ocean and provides recreation, commerce and life to so many. Though it took awhile to find a place where we could view the lake as much of the lakeside property is privately owned. I understand we all want our dream home but for those of us wishing to see some of this beauty perhaps planners years ago could have built in some…sharing. This isn’t isolated to this lake. We saw the same “zoning” on Lake Erie and Ontario.

Today’s ride turned out to be a Century Ride, meaning we traveled over 100 miles to here, Saginaw. With more level ground, calm wind and very good roads we were able to average over 12 mph. I should explain that the statistics in the block next to this commentary shows the riding time, not the entire time we are on the road that day. Also the mileage for the day is from point A to point B, but the total mileage includes the extra trips to get food and errands.

I must say that Michigan’s DoT has done a great job of identifying bike lanes, using signs for cyclists and ensuring there is a shoulder that is well paved and maintained. I have seen differences in other places between vehicle lanes and the substandard material used on the shoulder lane. Very happy at this point with Michigan’s bicycle-friendly attitude.

Where are we today?

2011-07-08T00:48:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: St. Thomas, Ontario - Port Huron, Michigan

Here is our route for Day 26. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 26

2011-07-08T00:48:00.000-03:00

l'Unifolié

Anticipating an easier ride and our desire to return to the U.S. Walter and I took off just before sunrise at 5:40 am. This was fine as it is much cooler bicycling at that time of the day, trying to beat the heat (today was appreciably cooler!). As we departed St. Thomas and I was negotiating around cracks and other road debris I started to brake and slow for the approaching red light. Walter was looking elsewhere and rear-ended me! No damage or harm though as we were going quite slow at that point. Wonder what USAA Insurance would have said were we to make a claim?

Wheat field near Strathroy, Ontario

This region of Canada truly is the bread basket. Not only are crops of corn, soybeans and wheat grown but also berries of several types, beets and other vegetables I did not recognize. All of these grown on several acres or hectares as they are called in the metric world. We also rolled past tree nursery’s and flower greenhouses. Very large green houses that I could tell were filled and probably nearly ready to go to market.

Upon entering Sarnia and preparing to cross the boundary formed by the St. Clair River, we quickly found that bicycles were not allowed over the bridge. After contacting the Bluewater Bridge Authority they helped arrange a ride to the U.S. side and into customs there in Port Huron. Then the wait began. After an hour waiting for a Border Patrol agent, then we were quickly processed and rode the last mile to our hotel for this evening.

Some "old guy" cycling through Ontario

Walter and I really enjoyed seeing three provinces of Canada (Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Ontario) and experiencing another country that is not so different than ours. We share many of the same cultural values, beliefs and love of the nation’s flag. As last week was Canada Day there were still several flags on display in towns and many, many homes with their own flagstaff displaying the l'Unifolié (The Maple Leaf).

Where are we today?

2011-07-06T19:34:00.000-03:00

You can check our progress here: Port Dover - St. Thomas, Ontario

Here is our route for Day 25. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 25

2011-07-06T19:33:00.000-03:00

Shoulder-less

When Walter woke, I instantly thought "A Flock of Seagulls!"

First we had breakfast at the hotel. Not the best idea as food prices in Canada are expensive in the grocery and more so at a sit down restaurant. Imagine picking up a gallon of milk here for $7.82 (US$ nearly equals the CA$)! After a frugal and pricey breakfast we went to the lake shore. Walter achieved objective #2 and saw Lake Erie. You can probably guess where our route will take us in the coming days and what objectives 3, 4 & 5 are going to be!

Next we set off from Port Dover, stopped at a grocery for our second breakfast and then were bound for St. Thomas. We hoped to have an easier ride than yesterday and it was as far as the wind was concerned. However, the Canadian government did not think it prudent to pave shoulders on many parts of Provincial Highway 3. Frustrating for us and other drivers I am sure. There is a rocky shoulder that is neither safe nor wise to bicycle on with 1” tires. So, using much caution we avoided pavement gaps, cracks, holes and lots of rubble.

Port Dover view of Lake Erie

Along the road, as the heat increases, we find ourselves “leap-frogging” from one convenience store to another. There we get a quick reprieve from the heat and enjoy our favorite beverage during the ride…Vitamin Water. Gatorade is good but Vitamin Water better, as it does not have sugar; substitute sweetener, but no sugar. And as much as I would enjoy a Dr. Pepper that is really a bad idea during the ride. We drink as much water as we can handle during the day and have had many different flavors from the tap these past three weeks. But sometimes, something sweet helps us carry onward. As for the Dr. Pepper? I am enjoying one right now…with ice. I feel blessed to enjoy a cold beverage after a hot, sweaty day of riding.

Where are we today?

2011-07-06T09:25:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Niagara Falls NY - Port Dover, Ontario

Here is our route for Day 24. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 24

2011-07-06T09:24:00.000-03:00

Wind blows

At the head of the American Falls. Not sure where the cyclists are?!

We were up at sunrise today. Walter was excited to leave our hotel and go down to Niagara Falls, one of the highlights he has been working hard each day to reach. And what and fantastic sight to see! We started by touring around Goat Island and viewing the American Falls. The mist generated by the cascading water created rainbows nearly everywhere we looked in the early morning light. As the water falls over 150 feet to the sharp rocks at the bottom the mist billows hundreds of feet into the air. Like the Grand Canyon and other magnificent landscapes you can capture some pretty good photos. But nothing prepares you for seeing the arcing rainbows, feeling the waves of mist or yelling at your son over the thundering falls.

We then crossed the Rainbow Bridge to Canada. Of course there was a toll for 50 cents each for us cyclists. We then were blessed with a view of the much larger Horseshoe Falls. As you look upstream of the very wide Niagara River it is difficult to comprehend how millions of cubic feet each minute of water can come to this point spilling over the rocky edge and continue on downstream. Another place to return to with my wife!

Horseshoe Falls, Niagara Falls, Ontario

This was the highlight of the day. We ascended a gentle slope out of the river valley and navigated this very urban area and into the countryside across the Welland Canal. This is the canal that connects Lake Ontario to Lake Erie for shipping traffic. We did not know how difficult the road was to become. We had hoped the road conditions would improve from New York…not so. And besides negotiating around cracks, uneven or missing pavement we were met with a strong headwind, for 70 miles. This region of Ontario, rich in agriculture of wheat, corn and soybeans, is relatively flat. Good for us as we planned the route. But with fewer trees and two great lakes influencing the weather we were at the mercy of an unrelenting wind. Our general heading was to the southwest. But I noticed that when stopped it seemed that no matter which way I faced, except east, there was the wind! We did arrive in Port Dover before sunset safely. Exhausted, Walter and I consumed a large pizza and a 2-liter bottle of root beer before falling fast to sleep.

Where are we today?

2011-07-04T23:23:00.004-03:00

You can check our progress here: Penfield - Niagara Falls NY

Here is our route for Day 23. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

I just found you can zoom in on the elevation guide when you initially open the link to Map My Ride^®. Click and drag your mouse across any interesting climb of the day that you want to look at in greater detail. Funny it seemed harder while on the hill than looking at the computer screen!

Day 23

2011-07-04T23:23:00.001-03:00

The Canal on Independence Day

Locks 34/35 at Lockport, NY

A great day to travel the Erie Canal Trail! After relaxing in the hospitality of my cousin’s home we set off to explore a small part of this 400+ mile trail. Most of the trail is level with fine, crushed gravel and a few miles of asphalt paving. We were on the trail for 50 miles finally jumping off at Middleport, NY. Fantastic to see this historic part of America that had much to do with commerce and helping the Midwest develop this growing nation over a hundred years ago. While much has changed with transporting goods in the U.S. and the canal is not used for that purpose anymore it does serve as a popular recreation area.

There were several other cyclists out on this Independence Day holiday. Plenty of people fishing along the levied areas. And of course, runners, dog-walkers and some very beautiful boat cruising from the Great Lakes on their way to the Hudson or even further to the Atlantic Ocean. We also came across some angry residents along the canal. Dozens hissed at us. They were Canadian Geese and they were not friendly.

Walter peddling along the Erie Canal

I believe the most impressive engineering sights I saw today were the Draw Bridges (several, still manned and active) a rural road that ran through a tunnel under the canal. And another valley-type area that had a river flowing under the canal and cascading into a waterfall on the other side!

So this is how we celebrated our Independence Day…by enjoying our freedoms that so many have fought for and will continue to work toward. I talked with Linda and Elizabeth today wishing them a Happy 4^th of July (as the fireworks here are kicking into high gear). Kind of pulls at my heart when I talk to them, miss them and try to share a little of Walter and my day. Obviously biking for several hours under the hot sun gives you time to think about events, life and the people you love. I love my two girls back home and long to hold them close again.

Day 22

2011-07-03T14:15:00.002-03:00

A day of rest.

Where are we today?

2011-07-03T01:36:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Baldwinsville-Penfield, NY

Here is our route for Day 21. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 21

2011-07-03T01:36:00.000-03:00

Feed him

In front of Lake Ontario

We departed before sunrise this morning since we wanted to be in Rochester, NY by noon time. The terrain was mostly rolling hills and then flattened approaching Lake Ontario. That’s right Walter has now completed one of his objectives and saw this large freshwater, inland sea. On the way there we were surprised to see large orchards of apple and cherry trees just off these southern shores. Of course the shoreline was a solid line of properties most of which were custom or luxury homes. We then headed south from Lake Ontario to my cousin’s home.

I have not seen Craig in at least 30-35 years. We were reacquainted and he introduced his wife and son. In spite of Walter and I being all sweaty I think we all hit it off well with catching up on family and how-are-you’s. They have been great hosts to us and given us great hospitality, especially since they delayed their holiday weekend camping to spend some time with us. But I think Karen will most likely remember us as the sweaty, smelly cousins.

A brand new fawn that was not scared of me and posed for a photo along SR 104

Since we departed early this morning we had a quick breakfast. Sugary cereal with very rich milk. As we rode along through small towns and villages Walter started to lag behind. Unusual for him as he is speedier than me. He was hungry after only having eaten an hour ago. The small towns and villages did not have any convenience stores or groceries and the further we went the hungrier and slower Walter got. You ever notice how you really enjoy food or drink when your desire for such is the most? Finally at mile 28 we saw that great American symbol that brought a smile to his face…the Golden Arches. After a quick second breakfast and respite we continued on and I made a note to myself. Do not forget to feed the boy.

Where are we today?

2011-07-01T21:10:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Herkimer - Baldwinsville, NY

Here is our route for Day 20. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 20

2011-07-01T19:40:00.000-03:00

Milestone

It finally happened. Early this morning, while transiting Frankfort, New York, my trip computer flipped to 1,000 miles. So, to celebrate I just kept on pedaling! Oh and another flat (number 4) happened to me about 20 miles later, thankfully after I had ascended the steepest hill of the day. This time I took a rusty tack in the sidewall near the tread. And a local neighbor was kind enough to let me use their air compressor (very cool!). With Walter’s help, we replaced it and were back on the road in minutes.

As the terrain has leveled these past two days I am noticing more and more farms with crops. Corn, pumpkins and other vegetables in 10-20 acre fields. Also, plenty of hay and alfalfa. It is cutting time and several farmers have passes on the road with their rake implement in tow to windrow their crop. Of course there is always the friendly head nod that seems to be the international farmer greeting.

This photo is actually from New Hampshire...but thought you
would enjoy the landscape we get to see everyday.

We noticed we have passed over the Erie Canal more than once on the Mohawk & Hudson Rivers and today the Seneca River. This fantastic engineering and construction accomplishment is almost 200 years old. Neat piece of history that we get to admire along the way. I wonder what events will happen next that will teach us about history, geography or culture.

We have noticed the change in dialect from when we left Canada and entered New England. Especially so when we entered New York. I had thought the New York accent was focus on the city itself…not so. Of course those who I have talked to here would say I am the one who has an accent. I learn something new every day.

Where are we today?

2011-07-01T00:13:00.003-03:00

You can check our progress here: Troy - Herkimer, NY

Here is our route for Day 18. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.

Day 19

2011-07-01T00:13:00.000-03:00

River Valleys

Woke to a bright, sunny morning with a strong wind from the northwest. And guess what direction we were headed today?! Yeah, northwest.

Our route took us across the Hudson River and through Schenectady and into the beautiful Mohawk River Valley. The roads and shoulders are not the best for riding bike on. Hope this does not remain true for the rest of the New York state roads. While the winds slowed our progress we did enjoy a more level ground ride with only the climb up from the Hudson River.

We ended up just past the 43^rd parallel in Herkimer and now we prepare to rest before tomorrow’s long ride. We need to get back on track with our goal of at least 66 miles a day. Perhaps we can make up some ground in the next two days on our way to Baldwinsville and then on to Rochester.

Where are we today?

2011-06-29T22:24:00.002-03:00

You can check our progress here: Brattleboro, VT - Troy, NY

Day 18

2011-06-29T22:23:00.000-03:00

May the road rise up to meet you.

I’m not sure which Irishman came up with that blessing but I did not feel blessed today. Maybe my morning prayer should be, “Lord, challenge me today!” Sure enough the road did rise up and was in front of Walter and I and not so much beneath us. We set off from our hotel immediately into an up-mountain climb for 10 miles. It was not the only climb of the day but the most challenging. We arrived at the Hogback Mountain overlook 90 minutes later and enjoyed the view and the rest.

Walter enjoying a cool drink on Hogback Mountain, Vermont

The Appalachians were filled with more ascents and descents and one more terrific climb. On that 2 mile rise, an 8% grade, in a headwind I am proud to say Walter made it to the top without stopping! However, I did not. Sad to say this was the 4^th time I have pushed my bike to the top of a significant climb (7%-9%). After all of the heavy breathing I may not have made it without stopping or sweating out a gallon of water…but I'm still going.

We also found out how effective evaporation of all that sweat works. When we started the climb in the humid foothills of Brattleboro we later found out it was a little chilly and dry at 2,300 feet. This was amplified a bit when we introduced wind chill by cruising downhill for 8 miles crossing the Appalachian Trail and into Bennington.

We enjoyed the fantastic views while in the Green Mountain National Forest but that’s enough hills for awhile. Tomorrow’s course through New York will have fewer climbs.

My Favorite Sign

An Irish blessing:

“May the road rise up to meet you, may the wind be ever at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face and the rain fall softly on your fields. And until we meet again, May God hold you in the hollow of his hand.”

Where are we today?

2011-06-28T19:34:00.000-03:00

You can check our progress here: Hillsborough, NH - West Brattleboro, VT

Here is our route for Day 17. The program will take time to load the map. Once it completes change the view to Full Screen and then you can choose a variety of view options on the drop down menu (Elevation, Terrain, Satellite, Distance Markers and more) to suit your interest.